![]() It has to be the indirect effect of the Copahu resin which subtly adds a rich, thick, almost honeyed, but definitely spicy amber touch to the base. In that opening blast, perhaps my favorite part are the subtle, spicy nuances in Ubar. The juicy flesh of the fruit adds another layer of richness to the jamminess of the rose, but any truly fruity aspects are alleviated by the lurking hints of delicate, dainty, sweet freesia and green, spring-like lily-of-the-valley. Co-mingled with that rich damask rose is a subtle touch of orange blossom and big chunks of orange that feels both pulpy and infused with spice. The mossy note feels midway between fresh and green, and dried, pungent and robust. It drips its hearty juices and jammy nectar atop a base of patchouli that almost feels infused with oakmoss. If this were meat, it would be a heaping slab of prime rib. Ubar opens on my skin with a burst of ruby-red, velvety, heavy, meaty rose. Interestingly, if you examine that list of ingredients, the usual Amouage mainstay of frankincense is missing. Copahu balm, for those who have never encountered it, is simply another type of very rich, spiced amber resin. Heart: jasmine, damascene rose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, tuberose, freesia, and palisander rosewoodīase: civet, vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, copahu balm and black amberĪccording to my research on Fragrantica, Litsea Cubeba is an evergreen shrub native to China whose aroma is “lemon-like, sharp, tangy, with sweet undertone.” As for Black Amber, Fragrantica says it is the lowest, cheapest grade of ambergris. Top: lemon, bergamot, lily of the valley, tangerine, orange, litsea cubeba and violet leaf The complete set of notes - as compiled from the official list on the Amouage website and from Fragrantica - are as follows: ![]() The original Ubar was, to me, a sandalwood fragrance decorated with a few flowers the new Ubar is a floral fragrance, first and foremost, with a woody oriental base ![]() Ow does the new Ubar compare with the old? Well, first, I thought it was gorgeous in 2005, and it’s still gorgeous in 2009, but the change in concentration (and obviously, the reformulation) is significant: the new Ubar is a much heavier scent, with considerably more emphasis on the floral notes in the heart and correspondingly less emphasis on the base. The notes (bergamot, lemon, lily of the valley, Damascena rose, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, sandalwood, synthetic civet and vanilla) are reportedly the same. It has new packaging (see image above), a new concentration (the original was an Eau de Toilette now it’s an Eau de Parfum) and a new price (much higher). Ubar has been relaunched this year (2009 1). Now Smell This has the details, along with the fabulous historical tidbit that the legendary city of Ubar was re-discovered in 1992 with the aid of satellite imaging. (Yes, I really do love history, even more than perfumery!) For some inexplicable reason, Amouage discontinued Ubar, before suddenly deciding to bring it back in 2009.
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